tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19075477933785737552024-02-18T19:56:59.560-08:00Allrite in AsiaAllrite's journey through Hong Kong, China and Japan in 2007.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-59906405229389598582007-04-10T21:32:00.000-07:002007-04-10T21:54:07.959-07:00PostscriptThe missing luggage was delivered safely to the house after 10pm last night. I was asked if we were carrying back rocks by the delivery man.<br /><br />After a month of travel it is pleasant to be back in our own home, back with our puppy who looks less puppyish than when we left. Yet I am not tired of travel. I still listen to the jets as they fly above our house and think about how I would like to be on them. Maybe back to Europe next time, but with a stopover somewhere in Asia.<br /><br />The holiday had many highlights. In China it would be walking along the Great Wall, the serenity around the big Buddha in Leshan and watching pandas play in Chengdu. Despite all the pushing peasants and taxi touts, we also met some lovely, helpful people in China. Hong Kong's fun came from the precarious transport up to the Peak and Lantau. Japan had quiet walks, cherry blossoms, volcanos and cities of neon.<br /><br />We will visit all those countries again, if we get a chance to. Each is different and each has far more to see than we have yet seen.<br /><br />But now it's time to enjoy the relatively unpolluted skies of Australia, to eat better yum cha than in Hong Kong and fish without bones. And I'll keep on dreaming of that next holiday...allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-70829359047689266142007-04-09T03:22:00.000-07:002007-04-09T04:22:47.066-07:00Home<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhoRkTsapRI/AAAAAAAAIRU/IgfdaHMgeMs/PICT5124.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhoRkTsapRI/AAAAAAAAIRU/IgfdaHMgeMs/PICT5124.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>After one month travelling through China, Hong Kong and Japan on plane, train, cable car, trishaw and whatever else you can imagine we have finally made it home again. It is always nice to return to your own home, a place where everything is familiar.<br /><br />Almost everything is familiar. Where once there was lawn now there was a jungle and the green waste bin wasn't large enough to hold all the clippings when I returned it to its former state.<br /><br />Our final day in Tokyo started with me running around to find the Kinko's in West Shinjuku to print out our Cathay Pacific online check-in documents. We then checked out of the hotel and caught the subway to the Tsukiji fish markets to find more dried seafood.<br /><br />I guess that the markets are closed on Sundays because there was only one dried seafood stall. The rest of the open shops were sushi restaurants for the tourists.<br /><br />As usual we were running late and overloaded for the Narita Express. My backpack frame had broken, so I was forced to drag my 25 kilogram back along the ground. Judging by the black dust on bottom of the bag I was doing a service for Shinjuku in cleaning up the floor.<br /><br />The flights back to Sydney were pretty fun, with only a few rough periods. The food was delicious and I had not seen the Little Britain Abroad episode on the IFE. The Cathay crew were very helpful, the air fresh enough for me. If only we had those lie flat first class bed maybe I could have had a good sleep on the plane.<br /><br />Instead I saw the stars for the first time in a month, watched a meteor burn up in the atmosphere. Below the bright lamps of the shrimp and squid fleets were brighter than any stellar reflections. I knew when we were passing Taipei because the cloud cover below suddenly took on a glowing red tinge, like a hidden hell. Lightning flashed in the clouds over Indonesia, natures fireworks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhoS5jsap7I/AAAAAAAAIWk/NtqODIbdT8Y/PICT5167.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhoS5jsap7I/AAAAAAAAIWk/NtqODIbdT8Y/PICT5167.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>As we crossed into Australia I watched the sunrise beneath the clouds, turning the cloudscape into a desert scene. Then I felt the plane shake as we passed into the clouds themselves.<br /><br />Unfortunately, my big bag did not appear on the luggage belt at Sydney Airport. I hope it has not disappeared into the hand of thieves because some of the contents are difficult to obtain in Australia. Plus my dirty laundry could be considered a weapon of mass destruction... oh, now it makes sense. I'll keep my eye out for people in sunglasses following me.<br /><br />The holiday is over and it is back to work tomorrow. Now for sleep!allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-89265447931022307662007-04-07T18:26:00.000-07:002007-04-07T18:34:48.321-07:00Saying goodbye to JapanThis will probably be the last post from Japan. This afternoon we catch the Narita Express to the airport, a flight to Hong Kong, then straight onwards to Sydney. As I said before, I will miss Japan, miss travelling. But it will also be nice to be home, to see our dog again, to see friends.<br /><br />I am not looking forward to doing housework again, to our garden or to the routine which rules our everyday lives. Each time we travel we bring back with us new memories and new ideas. There is always something positive to take away from each location. The grass may not always be greener on the other side, but it does offer a new perspective.<br /><br />So goodbye Japan for now. I'm hope we'll be back in the future.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-48945812773230137012007-04-07T07:08:00.000-07:002007-04-07T08:50:23.253-07:00A walk in the park<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RheZKDsanXI/AAAAAAAAIBw/NgtRbOY3FdE/PICT5001.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RheZKDsanXI/AAAAAAAAIBw/NgtRbOY3FdE/PICT5001.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>It took until the second last day, but I found it! No, not the singing toilet. Its location is still unknown. I'm talking about <a href="http://suntory.jp/Gokuri/">Gokuri</a>, Miracle of Grapefruit. This drink sustained me during our first visit to a hot and humid Tokyo. Since then it seems to have disappeared from the vending machines that dot the landscape.<br /><br />On the last trip I found Gokuri in a vending machine at Matsumoto Station, minutes from our train's departure. This morning we were walking down the North Eastern entrance into Shinjuku Station when we came upon a shop called <a href="http://www.ranking-ranqueen.net/">ranKing ranQueen</a>. This chain of stores (also spotted in Shibuya) <a href="http://greggman.com/japan/ranking-ranqueen/ranking-ranqueen.htm">only sells</a> the "Top 5" items in a variety of categories from drink (Gokuri was only number 4!?!?!) to cellulite removers. So Tokyoites, remember to keep Gokuri's ranking high, because I have no idea where else I can buy it!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RheZTzsanzI/AAAAAAAAIFQ/GdSrVJ63gQQ/PICT5029.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RheZTzsanzI/AAAAAAAAIFQ/GdSrVJ63gQQ/PICT5029.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We've been meaning to visit the Shinjuku National Garden (Gyoen) for a long time and today we finally made it through the crowded gates. The sunny, warm weather was perfect for lying under the cherry blossoms and thousands of locals appeared to agree. We weren't complaining, mind you, because they lent a festive and friendly air to the park as they savoured sushi and sake on their big blue mats. The park was big enough to share with everyone.<br /><br />Like Mount Fuji, it is difficult to understand the Japanese obsession with cherry blossoms until you see them for yourself. The Shinjuku gardens house many types of fruit blossoms in different shades of pink and white. Petals drifted softly to the ground or covered the surface of ponds. Clear spaces in the waters reflected the images of the overhanging cherry blossom trees, while the light upon the paths was filtered through the green and red Spring foliage of the maple trees.<br /><br />The park is a beautiful, restful place that feels like it is miles away from the neon cacophany of urban Shinjuku.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RheZnzsaosI/AAAAAAAAIMY/rPra49TgvtQ/PICT5087.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RheZnzsaosI/AAAAAAAAIMY/rPra49TgvtQ/PICT5087.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Just for a change, we caught the train to Shibuya, ate yummy Japanese burgers and shopped in the cheap Shibuya 109 department store. Nearby, Tower Records has an amazing range of limited edition soundtracks while Seibu Loft is full of interesting things for the home and office. Browsing Japanese shops is a lot of fun, both for the wierd range of goods on sale and the people who shop there.<br /><br />Shinjuku's north entrance was noisier than usual tonight with a politician holding a rally. It's local election time in Japan. It's a pity, because I had enjoyed escaping New South Wales prior to the state election, with all the awful advertising.<br /><br />I can't believe that this is our last night here. I look out our window and see a rainbow of neon, pulsing and flashing with life. I'll miss that.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-48305977635429811472007-04-06T07:06:00.000-07:002007-04-06T08:52:01.718-07:00Snow, Streams and Steam at HakoneEach gust of wind covered us in a cloud of rotten-egg gas. The landscape was stony and bare, except for paths of leafless shrubs. Grey water bubbled from steaming vents in the ground. Behind us Mt Fuji loomed large, covered in snow and cloud.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZMbjsalyI/AAAAAAAAH1I/ZN_GsGx1KqI/PICT4898.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZMbjsalyI/AAAAAAAAH1I/ZN_GsGx1KqI/PICT4898.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We were at Owakudani, a dormant volcano whose collapsed sides had exposed springs of steaming sulpherous water. Hirohide-san had kindly picked us up from Hakone-Yumoto station and driven us up into the mountains. Hot springs steamed out of the rock besides the road as we neared Owakudani, itself visible from afar by the white clouds coming directly from the mountainside. Yet we could also see patches of melting winter snows. It was the three phases of water at once!<br /><br />Even more impressive was the sight of Mount Fuji. We were fortunate, for almost the entire mountain, including the summit, was visible. It is truly an awesome sight, looming large over the countryside with nothing else besides it to diminish its height.<br /><br />We ate eggs boiled in the hot springs of Owakudani. The iron and sulphides in the water had reacted with the proteins to stain them black, but they tasted great.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZMTTsalnI/AAAAAAAAHzw/FCy7BVAM6RA/PICT4887.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZMTTsalnI/AAAAAAAAHzw/FCy7BVAM6RA/PICT4887.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Our next stop was over and through the mountains to Gotemba, Hirohide's pretty home town. I had met Hirohide, or Hiro as he preferred to be called, while on my morning walk to work in 2005. Hiro is a researcher and lecturer at Numazu University, but was spending ten months in Australia as a visiting researcher at my workplace. He had kindly offered to take leave from work and show us around his local area.<br /><br />Gotemba is also the home of major Japanese and US military bases and we passed helicopter gunships sitting on the tarmac and flying overhead. It seems an awful waste to place military baes in the area, for it has such spectacular views of Mt Fuji. Unfortunately, snow thwarted Hiro's attempt to drive us up to the base of the mountain, although the views of the winter landscape were worthwhile in themselves.<br /><br />We ate a delicious lunch of tonkatsu (crumbed pork). I have never tasted pork so tender and sweet as this. We were given a mortar and pestle to grind roasted sunflower seeds, to which we added a sweet tonkatsu sauce. Great fun!<br /><br />Steep and winding roads lead us to the area of Hakone that appears in all the photographs, the big caldera lake called Ashi. Motorised cruise boats disguised as paddle steamers or sailess men of war roam the lake with a cargo of tourists. Besides the lake near the town of Moto-Hakone is the famous red and black torii, others mark the entrance and exit to the town.<br /><br />Part of the old Tokaido road between Edo (old Tokyo) and Kyoto lies besides the lake, marked by giant cedar pines. Under the Tokugawa Shogunate the wives and children of local nobles were kept at the capital of Edo and the nobles themselves were required to visit Edo every alternate year. The movements of weapons and soldiers was strictly controlled to prevent rebellion.<br /><br />We visited a reproduction of one of the Imperial checkpoints along the road. Here, samurai and other officials monitored the movement of people along the Tokaido road, paying particular attention to the children and wives of nobles. The nearby museum, well worth a visit for the many artifacts on display, told the tale of a young girl who tried to return to her homeland to see her father and was executed by the soldiers at the checkpoint. Women who supported illegal travellers could be cast into slavery, the men tatooed for their crimes.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZNZDsanHI/AAAAAAAAH_w/KzdAX1be2VY/PICT4985.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZNZDsanHI/AAAAAAAAH_w/KzdAX1be2VY/PICT4985.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Nearby to the museum is a pretty park with great views of the lake and, if weather permits, Mt Fuji. By this time the clouds had closed in and the great volcanic mountain was no longer visible. But we <span style="font-style: italic;">had</span> seen it and were more than satisfied.<br /><br />Hiro drove us back to Hakone-Yumoto, which looks to be a lovely little town built in a mountain vallery around a burbling stream. It was wonderful to have a local guide and Hiro ensured that we saw many areas that may have been a bit troublesome to see otherwise. It's always fun to talk to someone who lives in the country you are visiting!<br /><br />Our Odakyu "Romance Car" train took us all the way back to Shinjuku station in comfort. We wandered around neon Shinjuku, visiting the "youth" 0101City department store. The basement houses Diamante Jesus, a store for Barbie Doll wannabes, while from Level 4 upwards are clothes and shoes for the cuties, goths and punks that gather in Harajuku on Sundays.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZNljsanVI/AAAAAAAAIBg/FrOtdE2hfng/PICT5000.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhZNljsanVI/AAAAAAAAIBg/FrOtdE2hfng/PICT5000.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The Japanese make Australian fashions, in fact anywhere else in the world, look positively boring. If you tried to wear in Sydney what they do here the conservative locals would probably charge you with something. I'm going to miss the colour and craziness of the people and the cities when I return to Australia. I have to admit that it is not something I am looking forward to. It's nice to be able to walk the streets late at night and enjoy the zany atmosphere without worrying that some drunk or druggy is going to mug you. And its like this every night, not just for Thursday late night shopping!<br /><br />I can't believe that this holiday is almost over. I don't want it to end. I just want to sit in this hotel room and gaze out over insane Shinjuku, then nip out for a quick but delicious sushi or soba and to walk amongst the cherry blossoms in the park.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-37607314436016944272007-04-05T06:16:00.000-07:002007-04-05T06:54:38.035-07:00Searching for the Singing Loo in ShinjukuEver since we spotted a picture of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcsEcNPB6bE">this moving, singing toilet</a> in a book we've wanted to see it for ourselves. All I knew was that the Ten Chi toilet was in the Lemina Building located somewhere in Shijuku.<br /><br />Our search began in West Shinjuku on the 26th floor of the <span style="font-style: italic;">L</span> building. According to the Lonely Planet the Toto Super Space showroom was located here. Toto make those arse-warming-and-washing toilets used across Japan. I love them, our hotel room has one and it certainly saves on toilet paper.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhTvWzsakdI/AAAAAAAAHqk/72Z5BFnAxXs/PICT4813.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhTvWzsakdI/AAAAAAAAHqk/72Z5BFnAxXs/PICT4813.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The showroom was a pretty staid bathroom fixtures display, the nearest working toilets nothing more exciting than your average Japanese loo.<br /><br />The sky was as blue and as clear as it has been through all of our time in Asia, the chilly air invigorating (to me, B was just cold). What better opportunity to spot Mt Fuji from Tokyo? So we caught the lift up to the 45th floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Tower 1.<br /><br />I thought I spotted Mt Fuji, but it wasn't as obvious as with our trip up to Matsumoto last year. No matter, we'll be in the area tomorrow visiting Hakone. However, the views across Tokyo were fantastic. Most buildings in Tokyo are low to the ground due to the danger from Earthquakes. Shinjuku is a more stable geological location and there were a number of skyscrapers around us. Helipads and the railway tracks of the window cleaners' apparatus were visible on their roofs.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhTvizsakuI/AAAAAAAAHss/DJ7dJSi0jZY/PICT4830.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhTvizsakuI/AAAAAAAAHss/DJ7dJSi0jZY/PICT4830.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Crossing back over to East Shinjuku the remainder of the day was spent mainly on shopping, though we did search for the Lemina buidling out in front of the Mitsukoshi Department Store. Better luck next time! I didn't check my watch often enough and we missed out on going for a walk amongst the cherry blossoms in Shinjuku Park (last entry 4pm). Hopefuly we will get another chance on the weekend. I feel much more exhausted from the shopping than the sightseeing.<br /><br />I really admire the quality and elegance of many Japanese goods. We visited a furniture store and most of the furniture looked simple, yet very classy. The food, both local and western is prepared and presented well. Their average bakery/patisserie item is as delicious as anything similar we ate in France. The fruits (I'm munching strawberries now) are top quality. Tonight's sushi was incredibly flavoursome.<br /><br />One failing would have to be the television here. Such nice TV sets, such crap programs. Just saw the Japanese version of <span style="font-style: italic;">Deal or No Deal</span>. No pissing or chilli eating contests at all! In fact I haven't seen a single one of those classic Japanese gameshows since we arrived. Do we just get back too late?<br /><br />Whatever my complaints about Japanese television, they pale in comparison to what I think of CNN. So little news in so much time! No mention at all of the disaster in the Solomon Islands, yet endless "analysis" and updates about the British soldiers' return from Iran. They could show news from across the world, yet all they do is focus on US non-news, terrorism and the Middle East. Even Channel 10 news is more informative. If this is the type of news that Americans watch at home then it is no wonder that they seem so ignorant. It's a pity that there are no other English language channels here at the hotel.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-91502381042107252282007-04-04T05:51:00.000-07:002007-04-04T06:42:48.093-07:00Karma Kamakura<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOfHTsag8I/AAAAAAAAHOc/udCu2J1Andw/PICT4718.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOfHTsag8I/AAAAAAAAHOc/udCu2J1Andw/PICT4718.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Inside the cave locals placed their coins in the small wicker baskets and ladled the Zeniarai Benten shrine's spring waters over the basket, soaking the money. Legend says that the money will be bring great returns once spent.<br /><br />As Australians we had a great advantage over the locals. A plastic fifty dollar note. No worries getting that wet!<br /><br />The Odakyo Line's rapid express to Fujisawa was a glorified suburban train with squashed inward facing seats. Not great for sightseeing, but the departure point was close to the hotel. After yet another late night that was very important as it meant we could wake up that much later (but still too early).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOfNTsahFI/AAAAAAAAHPk/jYEDC___r34/PICT4726.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOfNTsahFI/AAAAAAAAHPk/jYEDC___r34/PICT4726.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>At Fujisawa we changed to a tramway called the the Enoshima Dentetsu or Enoden line. This is a cute little train that runs through a narrow path, giving passengers a good view of some lovely little house gardens. After Enoshima the Enoden line runs along the coast. We watched locals attempting to surf in near non-existent waves. They were probably too busy enjoying the sunny weather to care.<br /><br />Disembarking at Hase station we walked up to the Hasedera temple, with its large wooden "kannon" (Buddha statue). The temple gardens are very pretty with many spring flowers and a wonderful view across the bay.<br /><br />A lunch of soba noodles, tempura and rice recharged the batteries. It's the first time we have had both on this trip to Japan. Last time I went crazy over soba, especially the cold zaru soba.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOfvjsaiXI/AAAAAAAAHZ0/DzaGVl32a6E/IMG_0051.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOfvjsaiXI/AAAAAAAAHZ0/DzaGVl32a6E/IMG_0051.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The Daibatsu, an 11 metre high bronze statue of Buddha was not as impressive as the Lantau island statue in Hong Kong, although its history is more interesting. It was originally enclosed within a wooden temple, but this was washed away in a tsunami.<br /><br />After one false start we took the Daibatsu hiking course northwards. The initial steep steps upwards were daunting, but the serenity and beauty of the surroundings quickly overcame the misgivings. The path wound its way up along the hill ridges, thick exposed tree roots a constant tripping hazard.<br /><br />We passed under green and red maples, pink cherry blossoms and a forest of cyprus pines. Above us falcons circled, while other birds sung a constant symphony. It was one of the most enjoyable experiences I have had in Japan.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOf6zsai0I/AAAAAAAAHdc/ZnOk78SGpFM/IMG_0067.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOf6zsai0I/AAAAAAAAHdc/ZnOk78SGpFM/IMG_0067.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The trail emerged into a quaint (and undoubtedly expensive) little community with spectacular views over the ocean. The Kuzuharaoka Jinja marked the end of our walk along the trail, the shrine appearing to be more of a picnic spot and blossom appreciation location than place of religious significance.<br /><br />The road down to the Zeniarai Benten shrine was steep and guaranteed that we were not climbing back up. There we washed our fifty dollar note and admired the huge koi. You don't see koi that size in China it seems. Probably eaten.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOgTjsaj0I/AAAAAAAAHlc/_T9eDXgH58g/IMG_0115.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhOgTjsaj0I/AAAAAAAAHlc/_T9eDXgH58g/IMG_0115.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>One more shrine interrupted our walk to Kamakura station: the Sasuke-jinja had a classic path of torii, though some were new and unpainted, while others had rotted away. The lead up to a peaceful set of shrines, adorned with many dog statues.<br /><br />The Enoden line returned us from Kamakura to Fujisawa, from where we caught the train back to Shinjuku and a evening trip to Yodobashi Camera and a dinner of Japanese curry. No little laptops as cute as the one I'm typing on.<br /><br />Kamakura is a really pretty place to visit. The Daibatsu trail provided a total contrast to the flashing lights and crowds of Shinjuku. There are many aspects to Japan and it's well worth trying to explore as many as you can.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-70384654179353829322007-04-03T07:13:00.000-07:002007-04-03T07:46:02.567-07:00Let's go Kawagoe!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbkAcw-DI/AAAAAAAAHG8/Okmqnf_usPs/PICT4659.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbkAcw-DI/AAAAAAAAHG8/Okmqnf_usPs/PICT4659.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Imagine eighty people dragging a four tonne three storey wooden float down a street. On the float musicians are playing flutes and striking drums, while at the top a human sized doll watches over the proceedings. Now imagine twenty-nine of these floats parading past centuries old Japanese architecture through streets lined with tens of thousands of onlookers.<br /><br />It would be spectacular to be in Kawagoe during the Autumn festival. But October is a long time away, so the town dubbed "Little Edo" was a lot quieter today. The black, grey and brown Edo-era tiled warehouses have been converted into shops selling a good range of souveniers, dried foods and sweets, many derived from the long purple skinned potatoes that seem to be the theme ingredient of the town.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbmQcw-KI/AAAAAAAAHH0/XxuWpgv8MFw/PICT4666.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbmQcw-KI/AAAAAAAAHH0/XxuWpgv8MFw/PICT4666.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>In lieu of the festival I visited the Kawagoe Festival Museum, where a couple of floats are displayed, along with audio-visual presentations. The old staff in the museum are eager to share their knowledge through the language barrier. It's surprisingly interesting.<br /><br />We walked through the chilly rain to the Kitain Temple. We were starving by this stage, for we hd not eaten lunch and it was after three. For the second time a hanami matsuri (cherry blossom festival) came to our rescue. There were lamps and tents set up amongst the temple ground cherry trees. We ate yakitori (skewers) and yakisoba (fried noodles) under the tent.<br /><br />The temple grounds are home to the Gohyaku-Rakan statues, 538 disciples of the Buddha carved from stone. Their postures and expressions are almost comical.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbwQcw-aI/AAAAAAAAHJ0/0-QJZaqC9dY/PICT4682.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbwQcw-aI/AAAAAAAAHJ0/0-QJZaqC9dY/PICT4682.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The train to and from Kawagoe left from right under our Shinjuku hotel. It was pleasant to get out of the city and pass through the suburbs, with their tiny manicured gardens and snapshots of daily Japanese life. One the way back a group of teenage girls dressed in exquisite kimonos boarded the train.<br /><br />At Kawagoe station we saw a vending machine selling a Yakult drink called "Thorpedo" with Ian Thorpe's face plastered all over it. So does it contain any performance enhancing drugs?<br /><br />I'm surprised the Kawagoe isn't mentioned in the Lonely Planet. The JNTO representative recommended it to us and we agree, it's a very interesting little town to visit and convenient too!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbewcw94I/AAAAAAAAHFk/o2lTVPTEWk0/IMG_0009.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhJbewcw94I/AAAAAAAAHFk/o2lTVPTEWk0/IMG_0009.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Back in Shinjuku, B had a hair cut while I bought up N-gauge model railway parts at Sakuraya. Amazing how cheap and how good the N-gauge stuff is in Japan. I'm looking to setup a miniature version of our rail trip to Takayama last year, as a reminder of our holidays.<br /><br />More trains tomorrow, this time to Enoshima and Kamakura.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-14092556803928597462007-04-02T06:26:00.000-07:002007-04-02T06:51:28.911-07:00Venus on Planet Tokyo<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhEEhAcw9pI/AAAAAAAAHDw/7pHixTWwigA/PICT4650.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhEEhAcw9pI/AAAAAAAAHDw/7pHixTWwigA/PICT4650.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>A shopping centre decked out like an old Italian town, complete with painted sky and uniformed attendants marching with glowing red batons. It's Venus Fort, located in the Odaiba area of Tokyo, adjacent to a multistorey showcase of Toyota cars which includes an automated car driving a indoor circuit. It's quirky Tokyo with a cafe that serves a delicious cup of hot white chocolate.<br /><br />We arrived at Aomi station in an automated "monorail" on the Yurikamome Line. It's more like a bus constrained to a path as there are no rails as such. Still, the views from the elevated "track" are great, showing off Tokyo's harbour area and Rainbow Bridge (which just looked white to me, even in the evening). It makes a nice change from the lack of views on the subways.<br /><br />After waking up late in the morning, just in time for the included hot buffet breakfast, we caught the subway to the Ginza area so we could pay a visit to the helpful Japan National Tourism Office (JNTO) for maps and brochures. It beats whipping out the big all-Japan Lonely Planet.<br /><br />From Ginza we walked past impossibly expensive brand shops down to the Tsukiji Fish Markets. B ate a lunch of mixed sashimi (raw fish) on rice. I've tried sashimi, but would rather not eat it if I can help it. Don't like the taste or texture.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhEEhQcw9qI/AAAAAAAAHD4/A_X_y8_7RTw/IMG_0013.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RhEEhQcw9qI/AAAAAAAAHD4/A_X_y8_7RTw/IMG_0013.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The small produce and fish stalls around the markets were closing by 2:30pm, so we walked to Shiodome and caught the monorail. The rest of the day was spent browsing the clothing stores. I'll get my chance to see electronics soon. And sightseeing begins again shortly, which I am greatly looking forward to.<br /><br />Star Wars Lego is even cheaper in Japan than Hong Kong. Why is Australia so expensive?<br /><br />It was strange reading the Sydney Morning Herald this morning and seeing a tsunami warning issued for the Eastern coastline. I'd expect that for here. There was a 6.9 magnitude earthquake last week. Hopefully the plate tectonics will be taking it easy for the next week.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-15275550084267944572007-04-01T06:24:00.000-07:002007-04-01T06:41:05.054-07:00Konnichi wa Nihon!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg-sBQcw9GI/AAAAAAAAG_Y/6s2vx47IhU0/IMG_0002.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg-sBQcw9GI/AAAAAAAAG_Y/6s2vx47IhU0/IMG_0002.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We said goodbye to Hong Kong today and hello to Tokyo today. The Airport Express to Hong Kong airport was fast and comfortable. Though it was nice to get some cash back we were a bit sorry to return the Octopus cards. These stored value cards were not only used as tickets on the MTR and trams, but also for purchases in bakeries, supermarkets and other shops. So nice not to fumble for change. Sydney is long overdue for this technology.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg-sEwcw9VI/AAAAAAAAHBQ/qAfQ_JUbI1s/IMG_0017.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg-sEwcw9VI/AAAAAAAAHBQ/qAfQ_JUbI1s/IMG_0017.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Both of our Cathay Pacfic flights have been superb, with the exception of the food. The entertainment system wasn't working properly on this flight and was rebooted a number of times. This seems to be a common problems across airlines.<br /><br />Our flight path took us near a number of storm clouds and things got bumpy as we skimmed along the high altitude cloud tops. Seems to be a common problem for flying north across the Pacific.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.allrite.net/__store/gallery/albums/Japan2006/IMG_0660.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://www.allrite.net/__store/gallery/albums/Japan2006/IMG_0660.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Caught the Narita Express to Shinjuku for the seventh time, it is all very familiar to us now. That's the nice thing about staying here in Shinjuku. There's a lot to see (and many places to shop), but we know our way around and we can relax now. Upon entering the hotel room we had a pleasant surprise. What was once a slightly run down beige and white room with a great view is now a hip looking space complete with a widescreen LCD TV and, still with a fantastic view. Cool!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg-sFgcw9YI/AAAAAAAAHBo/HAxMtuSxlVI/IMG_0020.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg-sFgcw9YI/AAAAAAAAHBo/HAxMtuSxlVI/IMG_0020.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We saw many cherry blossoms on our ride into Tokyo, so hopefully we'll get a chance to walk amongst them during our stay here.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-42560511306445414742007-03-31T09:53:00.000-07:002007-03-31T10:38:07.775-07:00Bonkers in Honkers<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg6Rqgcw9CI/AAAAAAAAG-8/EKFhw3qaUJs/IMG_0001.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg6Rqgcw9CI/AAAAAAAAG-8/EKFhw3qaUJs/IMG_0001.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>I told B that we should go sightseeing during the weekdays so that the sights would not be crowded with locals. It's the weekend and I don't think any local was sightseeing. No, they were out shopping like us. Such crowds!<br /><br />No sightseeing for us during our last full day in Hong Kong. Instead we did the local thing and hit the streets in search of bargains. After a late breakfast of congee (rice porridge), yiew tiao (deep fried dough stick) and a deliciously smooth milk custard (ty the ginger flavour!) we set out.<br /><br />Our quest started nearby to the hotel at the Jade Market. Which is real, which is fake? Neither of us like jade jewellry much and the nicer statues are expensive. Next was browsing the "factory outlets" at Sham Shui Po. They are all local brands and not very nice.<br /><br />Apliu Street, also at Sham Shui Po, is sort of a Hong Kong street market version of Tokyo's Akihabara Electric Town. Stalls and shops selling all sort of electronic goods. The nearby Golden Computer Arcade was completely packed with young shoppers and computer shops. I felt a primal male urge to aquire some of the flashing lights and shiny computer cases for myself, but just couldn't find a need. Besides which, Tokyo awaits.<br /><br />At the top of Sham Shui Po's Dragon shopping centre was an amusement park with a currently non-operational rollercoaster and ice rink. A local boy band was making an appearance at the shopping centre and lots of young girls were gathered around the vantage points.<br /><br />Next, Mong Kok yet again. Too many choices for cameras, phones and other electronic goods. The streets were packed with people, the atmosphere overwhelming. Shoes, sports clothes, again too many choices, though not always to our taste. The Esprit Salon provided some relief, while B had her eyebrows done I was treated to a complimentary soft-drink and a seat. That's an innovation I would like to see in Australia!<br /><br />On our way back to our local area we stopped again at a multilevel shopping centre filled with tiny stores selling anime and gaming paraphenalia. A few shops sold photos and posters of young idols. I regressed to childhood and purchased some Star Wars Lego - very cheap - to display in my work area. Why didn't they have Star Wars lego when I was 8 years old? It would have made choosing birthday presents much easier.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg6Rswcw9DI/AAAAAAAAG_E/cYswaHO-aOQ/IMG_0002.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg6Rswcw9DI/AAAAAAAAG_E/cYswaHO-aOQ/IMG_0002.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>At the Temple Street Market I found a stall selling rip-off Star Wars figurines amongst a wide range of other cartoon and movie characters. One bag held a good selection, except that a figurine inside had a white hand printed on his head. Perhaps a member of Count Dooku's mob?<br /><br />I do sound like a nerd, don't I.<br /><br />We ate a dinner of radish cake, pippies and stir-fry at an open air restaurant besides the market, helping some British tourists, here for the Rugby Sevens tournament, to order. [Bugger, just saw John Howard on the TV again. Isn't there any escape???]. The most amazing thing about today was that we only took two photos, and they were just before we returned to the hotel!<br /><br />We've enjoyed staying in Hong Kong, though it does feel like time for a change. There is lots more to see and next time I would like to walk some of the heritage trails in the New Territories and on the islands.<br /><br />Next stop Tokyo, Japan!allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-25971908426091408042007-03-30T09:56:00.000-07:002007-03-30T10:25:24.615-07:00Hanging by a thread<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg1BGwcw77I/AAAAAAAAG2E/A4C-4FdfRkc/PICT4579.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg1BGwcw77I/AAAAAAAAG2E/A4C-4FdfRkc/PICT4579.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The thread was more of a fat steel cable and there was more than one of them, but it still <span style="font-style: italic;">looked</span> small in comparison to the height above ground. We were travelling on the Ngong Ping 360 cable car up to the Tian Tan Buddha statue looking over Lantau Island. The entire ride takes about 25 minutes.<br /><br />When you see the cable car in front of you suddenly accelerate down the cable you think you are in for a rollercoaster ride. The truth is much milder. Even the winds closer to the summit didn't trouble the car greatly.<br /><br />Suspended high above the ground we were treated to spectacular views of the ocean, airport and scrub below. There is a trail that follows much of the cable's route, but more people were seen running down than up. As we neared the summit tombs were seen built into the mountain, good feng shui according to an older Hong Kong resident in our cabin. However, the most awe inspiring view is of the cable system's route as it soars up the mountains. It's not for people scared of heights.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg1DRwcw8YI/AAAAAAAAG5s/4sK8cG_q6BI/PICT4608.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg1DRwcw8YI/AAAAAAAAG5s/4sK8cG_q6BI/PICT4608.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>There was low cloud blowing in arround the Buddha statue, mostly obscuring it from view. Tian Tan is the largest outdoor Buddha statue in the world and requires the climbing of 260 steps in order to reach the base. Closer up, the passing mist lent a mystical air to the Buddha, his kindly face looking down upon us.<br /><br />After another, slightly less spectacular due to the cloud, ride back down the mountain in the cable car we arrived at the CityGate Outlet Centre. B found a couple of things to purchase in the outlet shop, after which we caught the MTR back to our hotel area and wandered until late through the Temple Street and Ladies Markets, eating dinner in a hawker centre.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg1CPAcw7-I/AAAAAAAAG2c/EvGHlkwgSjo/PICT4582.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rg1CPAcw7-I/AAAAAAAAG2c/EvGHlkwgSjo/PICT4582.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>I should mention lunch (which was also breakfast due to our laziness). We had a second Yum Cha lunch. Again there were no carts and instead we had to order from a menu. Also again was that the flavours didn't seem as good as in most Sydney yum cha restaurants and we were distinctly disappointed.<br /><br />Last full day in Hong Kong tomorrow. It's been wonderful to stay in a city that is so easy to traverse by public transport and foot. Not certain what we will do tomorrow, but I'm sure we'll have fun.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-23663389662268590532007-03-29T08:48:00.000-07:002007-03-29T09:55:12.444-07:00All manner of transportDuring our time on this trip we have caught all manner of transport, from a trishaw in Beijing to the Maglev in Shanghai. We've been on a hydrofoil on the Yangtze and a couple of sleeper trains across China. And many flights with more to come.<br /><br />Today was special for the number of different modes of transport we caught in a single day, the day that we left China proper and returned to Hong Kong.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">1. Taxi</span><br /><br />The taxi drivers wanted RMB100 for the trip from the hotel to Guilin's airport and refused to use the meter. We knew from experience that this was a blatant rip-off. The concierge haggled down to RMB80 and we took it, with time running out. It's a pity to have to suffer cheating on your final day in a country. We met many honest, decent Chinese people, but also quite a few out to rip us off.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">2. Aircraft</span><br /><br />A China Southern flight took us from Guilin to Shenzhen. Though pretty smooth, the seat pitch was the narrowest of the Chinese carriers and we were each only given a small bottle of water and face wipe. Perhaps this was due to the shortness of the flight - only 50 minutes. Unfortunately, the skies over Guilin were overcast and smoggy so we missed out on the spectacular views from the incoming flight.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">3. Minibus</span><br /><br />Our original intention was to do some shopping around the land border crossing area into Hong Kong, but when presented with the option of going directly to Hong Kong from the airport decided to take that easier option. We were packed into a minibus for the short ride to Shenzhen's ferry terminal.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvYSQcw2TI/AAAAAAAAGJE/8KPPbbgC-Hc/PICT4490.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvYSQcw2TI/AAAAAAAAGJE/8KPPbbgC-Hc/PICT4490.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">4. Catamaran</span><br /><br />The TurboJET to Hong Kong was a comfortable, modern and fast catamaran that raced us through the placid Pearl Delta to Kowloon. We passed tiny, dingy fishing vessels, small container boats with their own cranes, bigger ships and even a drilling rig. The closer we approached Hong Kong, the more the pollution appeared to subside.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">5. Walking</span><br /><br />We lugged our two heavy backpacks and one day pack from the ferry terminal to Tsim Sha Tsui. They had definitely increased in weight since the start of our journey. The air in Hong Kong was warm and humid, fresher too compared with mainland China.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">6. Mass Transit Railway (MTR)</span><br /><br />Tsim Sha Tsui to Yau Ma Tei is only two stations by the underground, but any decrease in walking time was appreciated. The Octopus stored value cards make it so easy.<br /><br />A quick walk to our hotel, the Dorsett Seaview, same as before, then out again for a lunch of noodles and wonton. Then back to the MTR for a ride to Central on Hong Kong Island.<br /><br />There we purchased some dried scallops for B's mother and wandered around Hollywood Street, admiring antiques and jade far out of our price range.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvZiAcw28I/AAAAAAAAGOM/jXSroEpwe2g/IMG_0012.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvZiAcw28I/AAAAAAAAGOM/jXSroEpwe2g/IMG_0012.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">7. Escalator</span><br /><br />The longest pedestrian escalator in the world is actually a series of smaller escalators with breaks allowing people to join and depart on the ride up to the "Mid-levels". It went on and on and on, but was pretty interesting for the views of the shops and residential towers alongside.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">8. Walking again</span><br /><br />From the top of the escalator at conduit road we walked East and downhill through part of the botanical and zoological gardens. You could tell that it was a very expensive area, green and pleasant with quite a few expatriates.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">9. Cable tram</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvaHQcw3FI/AAAAAAAAGPU/SfOHKFkXfWY/IMG_0021.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvaHQcw3FI/AAAAAAAAGPU/SfOHKFkXfWY/IMG_0021.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The cable drawn tram ride to the Peak is quite an adventure, rising very steeply at 27 degrees at some points. How anyone can ride standing I don't know. The evening views from the Peak Lookout Tower looking out over Hong Kong Island's cityscape were spectacular, but cloud was just starting to obscure them from the top. It was as if a smoke machine was blown over the top of the tower, the lower levels were beneath the cloud.<br /><br />The ride down again was even scarier, with all passengers seated backwards. B felt sick afterwards.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">10. MTR again</span><br /><br />A quick metro ride between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui got us there in time to watch the city skyline lightshow from the Promenade. Green laser beams and white spotlights shot out from the tops of the buildings many of which had colourful light displays on their structures.<br /><br />It was quite as spectacular as I had hoped, but still quite beautiful.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvbSQcw3iI/AAAAAAAAGS8/MAK-1rqhJ8w/PICT4543.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvbSQcw3iI/AAAAAAAAGS8/MAK-1rqhJ8w/PICT4543.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">11. Walking yet again</span><br /><br />We walked back along Nathan Road towards our hotel. We chose to return here for the surrounding night markets and local restaurants. Tonight we decided to have a change from Chinese food and ended up in a restaurant where the food was prepared and served factory style. Edible, but not great.<br /><br />It <span style="font-style: italic;">is</span> a relief to be back in Hong Kong after spending two weeks in mainland China. Don't get me wrong, there were plenty of wonderful sights we saw and great people we met in China. There were also many negatives. It's a tiring place to travel in and I think we just need some time now to relax in a modern locations where we can catch public transport to the sights and not need to rely on others to drive us around and to speak the language for us. I'm pretty certain that we will return to China again one day, but not for a little while at least.<br /><br />Tomorrow we may add to our tally of transportation types with a cable car ride up to the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-7490142748704423632007-03-29T08:37:00.000-07:002007-03-30T10:27:32.612-07:00Pollution<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rgvfjwcw4VI/AAAAAAAAGZQ/dIDyiNDXSA0/PICT4346.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rgvfjwcw4VI/AAAAAAAAGZQ/dIDyiNDXSA0/PICT4346.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We have experienced every type of pollution during our time in China. Air pollution so bad we can barely speak our throats are so irritated. The water we drink is always boiled or bottled. And as for visual pollution, well the list of ugliness is endless here.<br /><br />Guilin's air has been the cleanest of our time in China, the water is still dodgy, but the city is actually relatively attractive visually, with the karsts, parks and waterways. Our problem has been noise pollution.<br /><br />Our first night here was disturbed when a group of Cantonese speakers arrived on our floor. They left their doors open and the old women played mahjong, shrieking at maximum volume late into the night. I shut the door on one group and asked them to be quiet, but they just ignored me.<br /><br />That's the typical Chinese culture for you. It's so competitive that everyone looks after themselves and ignores everyone else's needs. Want a ticket? Ignore the queue and push in while the clerk is serving someone else. Driving a car? It's up to the crossing pedestrians to get out of the way. Or just take up the entire lane in your slow vehicle. And everyone likes your voice, of course they do, because you are the most important person in the world and everyone should listen to what you say.<br /><br />Unfortunately, I have increasingly viewed this kind of behaviour in Sydney. Especially amongst iPod users on trains.<br /><br />We went from a room with a fantastic view of the karsts to one with poor views. And no internet access. I am pissed off!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rgvo9Qcw6RI/AAAAAAAAGow/ARKVGhlEJ7o/PICT4470.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rgvo9Qcw6RI/AAAAAAAAGow/ARKVGhlEJ7o/PICT4470.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The noise pollution didn't end when we left the hotel this morning for our cruise along the Li River to Yangshuo. Sitting at our table on the boat were older Americans from the Midwest. Of course, they had to constantly verbalise. Talk, talk, talk, talk. They seemed nice enough, but the gorgeous scenery outside lent itself to quiet contemplation, not self-involved conversation. Thankfully it was a bit quieter above deck.<br /><br />The taxi drivers in Guilin have been quite annoying, demanding set fees and even petrol money at the end over a metered fare. They wanted to charge us RMB100 for the ride to Zhujiang Pier. By the meter it was RMB68.40, a significant saving. The hotel concierge staff can be quite helpful in this regard.<br /><br />The ride out to the pier was very interesting, passing rice paddies, stone carving villages, buffaloes and a huge pig standing in the road.<br /><br />A great parade of boats left the docks for the river cruise. The karst scenery was quite otherworldly. I expected to see dinosaurs emerge from the trees at any moment. The karsts are limestone, the remnants of ancient shellfish, arround which the stone has eroded away, dissolved by the carbonic acid in water and due to vegetation. Interestingly, this is one process by which carbon dioxide in naturally removed from the atmosphere.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvkxAcw5tI/AAAAAAAAGkQ/3H1QWvJKVAM/PICT4434.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvkxAcw5tI/AAAAAAAAGkQ/3H1QWvJKVAM/PICT4434.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We passed bamboo rafts, caves high up the side of the mountains and stalactites growing from above the riverbanks where run-off has dripped down. Buffaloes, ducks and geese wallowed in the shallows, the possessions of the riverside village occupants.<br /><br />The cruise ticket included a buffet lunch, mainly Chinese food, though the Americans were delighted with the french fries and “Twinkies” (whatever they are). We enjoyed the sweet kumquats, miniature citrus fruit, so much we purchased a bag from a streetside vendor later on.<br /><br />After all the hype Yangshuo was a disappointment. Lots of tourist good shops, lots of the same old shops existing anywhere in China. At least the shopkeepers were less aggressive than elsewhere, probably understanding westerners' aversion to such tactics.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvrPAcw65I/AAAAAAAAGtw/NtP3VhvLHuQ/IMG_0128.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgvrPAcw65I/AAAAAAAAGtw/NtP3VhvLHuQ/IMG_0128.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We visited KFC for its toilets (clean, but squat only for men) and ate some yummy peach egg tarts – different to Australia! Many attractive karsts dot the town, but we had had our fill and had no energy to climb (I am still busy sniffling away). So we caught a bus back to Guilin.<br /><br />The bus ride was slow, bumpy and dusty. The noise pollution continued with the driver's frequent sounding of the horn. Despite this, we still fell asleep for some of the ride.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rgvrkwcw68I/AAAAAAAAGuI/DPloAJ1bkzM/IMG_0131.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rgvrkwcw68I/AAAAAAAAGuI/DPloAJ1bkzM/IMG_0131.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Dinner was in the hotel restaurant. Unremarkable, except that a couple of musicians were playing the lute and Chinese harp, the guzheng, both beautiful instruments.<br /><br />Tomorrow we leave for Shenzhen and Hong Kong. I'll be glad to be leaving China proper and indeed I'm looking forward now to Japan, a country of manners and cleanliness. China has been a very interesting experience, but it is wearying and it's time now for a holiday.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-60197002817258146472007-03-28T05:22:00.001-07:002007-03-30T10:27:58.187-07:00No updateNetwork doesn't work in our new room so no update tonight. Noisy Cantonese drove us out. Will take revenge tomorrow in HK.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-70503053567920348312007-03-27T05:53:00.000-07:002007-03-27T06:14:00.076-07:00Floating on air<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgkPN8gisKI/AAAAAAAAGCE/Y00oL1tS8jE/IMG_0007.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgkPN8gisKI/AAAAAAAAGCE/Y00oL1tS8jE/IMG_0007.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Is 431km/h the fastest we have ever travelled on land? I'm not certain it counts as we were actually floating above the ground. Today we caught the Maglev, the magnetic levitation train, between Shanghai and Pudong Airport.<br /><br />I think we finally worked out Shanghai metro's ticketing system. You can't reuse your ticket when interchanging between Line 3 and Line 1 at Shanghai station. But you can when interchanging between Lines 3, 4 and 2! It was a roundabout way to get to the airport and, at RMB50 per person for the Maglev ride, perhaps not the cheapest. But it was a fun, if shortlived, pleasure.<br /><br />The amazing thing about the Maglev is how smooth and unnoticable the acceleration is. I've caught both the Shinkansen and TGV and neither were as smooth as the Maglev. Wish we could travel to work on one!<br /><br />The flight between Shanghai and Guilin was the best yet of this trip. Shanghai Airlines seemed okay, though sometimes their English announcements were garbled and the coconut cream roll as a bit stale. The KitKat was good, though. I had forgotten how good chocolate tastes.<br /><br />I thoroughly recommend a daytime flight to Guilin. The approach over the limestone karsts and the shimmering mosaics of the rice paddy fields was spectacular. It was the sunniest weather all trip, though the smog layer was always visible.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgkPuMgis3I/AAAAAAAAGHs/M9stqKres0U/PICT4313.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgkPuMgis3I/AAAAAAAAGHs/M9stqKres0U/PICT4313.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Our room at the Guishan Hotel has wonderful views of limestone karsts. The grounds also seem quite pleasant. We walked down to the local shops, purchasing tiny sweet mangos and bananas from the market vendors, ordered meat and tofu skewers with the help of some giggling schoolgirls.<br /><br />Dinner was delicious guilin rice noodles and fried fish in a sweet and sour style sauce. Guilin seems to be a relaxed (except for the traffic) small city and a pleasant place for an evening walk.<br /><br />Off on a Li River cruise to Yanghshuo tomorrow.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-51339538117621279882007-03-26T07:44:00.000-07:002007-03-26T17:57:41.075-07:00Route Canal<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgfWHsgirpI/AAAAAAAAF98/-W-WAuVVvKs/PICT4297.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgfWHsgirpI/AAAAAAAAF98/-W-WAuVVvKs/PICT4297.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Canals evoke the image of romantic travel in me. We passed through part of China's extensive canal network during our approach to Shanghai. It looked very much alive, with barges and low boats carrying raw materials and finished products. Old wooden sampans moored beside decaying buildings or under low bridges illustrated the long history of China's canals, dating back a thousand years or more. So I was looking forward to visiting Zhouzhang, one of the area's famous Water Towns and threaded by canals.<br /><br />The town itself is quite attractive, with narrow pedestrian (and bicycle) only streets of local brick, but the effect was ruined by the aggressive shopkeepers occupying almost every building. They all sold the same thing, silk crafts, wood carvings, paintings, pig trotters. Worse were the restaurant touts, each advertising the same meal, each trying to get you inside.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgfVj8girCI/AAAAAAAAF5E/baLN1kRmCQE/IMG_0072.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgfVj8girCI/AAAAAAAAF5E/baLN1kRmCQE/IMG_0072.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>There were some pleasant spots, the Quanfu temple with its outlook on to the lake, the lute playing at the Ancient Opera Stage (before a performance of Chinese opera drove us off) and, best of al, Zhang's House, a maze of rooms and small garden scenes.<br /><br />We took a gondola ride through the canals, which was very pleasant, until the driver started singing badly and demanding money for it.<br /><br />Our pogo-stick bus ride back to Shanghai was interrupted by a detour to a silk shop where we were treated to a fashion show complete with catwalk an coloured spot lights. Hilarious really. None of the foreign tourists bought anything, but I think the Chinese enjoyed it.<br /><br />Maybe the smallpox button in the hotel room didn't give me that virtually extinct disease, but I have had a very sore throat all day. Not surprising with all the pollution and Chinese habit of sharing phlegm. So I wasn't in the happiest of moods today and the touts didn't help.<br /><br />I found the canals we passed during the bus ride back to Shanghai far more evocative. I think that Suzhou may have been a better choice to see these, along with the gardens. Next time maybe...allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-29269735662586637312007-03-25T08:17:00.000-07:002007-03-25T09:48:01.826-07:00The Bizarre and the Bazaar<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaPZMgim7I/AAAAAAAAFYQ/JSFB-SNg0Vc/PICT4089.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaPZMgim7I/AAAAAAAAFYQ/JSFB-SNg0Vc/PICT4089.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>It's much less effort to walk ten kilometres of the Great Wall than to spend an hour standing around clothes shopping. Oh my sore feet! At least the pain in the hip [pocket] was only mild, this being China.<br /><br />We were both feeling much better about China after a good rest and late morning! The hotel is very clean and the rooms appear fresh, but I do have my concerns. There is a switch on the light control board labelled <span style="font-style: italic;">Smallpox</span>. It turns on the downlights, but what else might it do?<br /><br />Even if the hotel could be a site for biological terrorism, it is convenient. We booked our flight on the 27th to Guilin in the Shanghai Airlines office in the lobby. The flight was picked to depart from Pudong Airport, giving us an excuse to catch the Maglev.<br /><br />A branch of the Shanghai Sightseeing Bus group is also just over the road from us, so we booked a day trip to Zhouzhang tomorrow. I also wanted to see the gardens of Suzhou, but combining this (an easy train ride) with a trip to a canal town looks troublesome, so it's on the list for a future visit.<br /><br />After the booking we engaged in that most exciting of activities, crossing a Shanghai street. Still alive, we bought tickets on the light rail back to People's Square. We just don't get how the single trip tickets work. We ask to go to People's Square, but have to exits to change to the subway at Shanghai Station. At that point the tickets are eaten by the gate. We then need to queue and buy more tickets for the subway. I'm certain that we are doing something wrong, but what?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaPh8ginFI/AAAAAAAAFZg/vO30M1SbFto/PICT4100.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaPh8ginFI/AAAAAAAAFZg/vO30M1SbFto/PICT4100.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Watching the locals board the empty subway carriages at Shanghai Station's subway is hilarious. They prime themselves when the train pulls up, then sprint (well, they would sprint if they had room to do so) and push inside as soon as the doors open, in order to grab the precious plastic seats. Anything to "win" against other people I suspect.<br /><br />From People's Square we walked south, then east, our objective being the Shanghai Old Street and Yuyuan Gardens. We turned off into one narrow, busy street with a number of "Islamic restaurants". A beggar dragging a monkey tied by the wrist asked for money. The poor monkey looked unhealthy with raw red patches. It was an awful sight.<br /><br />On impulse we had lunch at the Xin Jiang Yi Li Can Ting Islamic restaurant and asked the waitress to recommend some dishes. We thought we had ordered too much, but ended up just eating too much. Delicious roast mutton melting off the bone, served with red onion and carrot. Chicken in a red stew, like a curry, strongly flavoured. A rice pilaf with carrots and stewed in mutton broth, so full of flavour. The second best meal in China after the Leshan river fish.<br /><br />Shanghai Old Street is a tourist trap lined with souvenier stalls, but we couldn't resist purchasing some momentoes, prices haggled far down. Noisy, busy, but still quite fun.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaQf8gioEI/AAAAAAAAFhY/erqsZXKhhJQ/PICT4163.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaQf8gioEI/AAAAAAAAFhY/erqsZXKhhJQ/PICT4163.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Depsite the many tour groups the Yuyuan Gardens provided a respite from the noise outside. I love the way there are so many hidden paths to follow in a Chinese garden, the framed views, the water, stone and bamboo. It was wonderful to sit down and relax.<br /><br />Outside the Yuyuan Gardens we braved the crowds once more, but there was no way we would fit on the famous zigzag bridge to the teahouse - it was packed. Instead we walked onwards to the Bund and then down into the sightseeing tunnel.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaQ7MgiouI/AAAAAAAAFmo/DpaDeOUBwhg/PICT4207.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaQ7MgiouI/AAAAAAAAFmo/DpaDeOUBwhg/PICT4207.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The tunnel underneath the Huangpu River is super tacky, but fun. A cable car on rails takes you through a light show complete with lasers and those inflatable figures that flap around outside of car yards.<br /><br />We emerged near the Oriental Pearl Tower, the symbol of modern Shanghai. B was wondering when she would get a chance to go shopping. I told her that we would catch a subway under the river to Huaihai Lu, so we walked in the direction of the station. Then, opposite the Pearl Tower entrance she saw a magical sign: Sephora. Then Zara. Her two most favouritest shops in all of Europe.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaQ_cgio2I/AAAAAAAAFno/Mzq9afQeuNo/PICT4215.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgaQ_cgio2I/AAAAAAAAFno/Mzq9afQeuNo/PICT4215.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>My feet were ready to collapse by the time we had dinner. I didn't really enjoy the food at the Yunnan restaurant, but the lime juice and B's apple pearl drink were delicious. The shops were shutting by the time we finished, so it was back to the hotel, past the amazingly tall architecture of Pudong.<br /><br />Canals await tomorrow!allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-32039912527751256262007-03-24T07:42:00.000-07:002007-03-24T08:51:40.739-07:00Shanghaied!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU4-sgikpI/AAAAAAAAFF0/6YeBW5Mw6MM/PICT3955.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU4-sgikpI/AAAAAAAAFF0/6YeBW5Mw6MM/PICT3955.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Something just snapped in me yesterday as we travelled through the yellow rapeseed fields from Yichang to Nanjing. Maybe it was the smoking, spitting, shouting, shoving migrant workers at Yichang railway stations. Or the polluted air, the disturbing sameness to the cities and the farms. Or frustration at my inability to speak the language or to freely travel around without relying on others. Even the food. Or all of the above. Suddenly my tolerance of China disappeared. I found myself wishing I were somewhere else.<br /><br />I certainly did not want to be on that train. As we walked up the steep steps to Yichang railway station we were surrounded by peasant workers, belongings wrapped in makeshift bags of sheets. The Chinese push in whenever possible, don't give way. I've learned just to barge in and not care if my backpack takes bystanders out.<br /><br />Not knowing where to go we passed our bags through the x-ray machine and entered the general waiting room. It was a scary experience, surrounded by crowds of people whose appearance was that of those shouting, shrieking drug addicts you sometimes see on the streets of Sydney. But I guess that this is often a new experience for them too and most are probably very nice people.<br /><br />Backing out, the security guard pointed us in the direction of the "soft class" waiting room. A helpful local had to point out ts entrance behind locked doors. The soft class attendants ushered us straight to the train, not even bothering to check our luggage.<br /><br />The soft sleeper cabin was a lot less comfortable than the cabin we travelled in from Hong Kong to Bejing. Four narrow, hard beds arranged in two bunks. Dodgy looking linen. The carriage toilet a dirty squat.<br /><br />The old couple we shared the compartment we very nice and kept offering pomelos, apples and sunflower seeds. Thankfully they didn't like smoking either, for the overcrowded train contained plenty of smokers in the corridor in defiance of the no smoking sign. However the lady insisted of leaving the door open most of the time. This may have been a good thing as she kept coughing through the night (and no hand to cover the mouth, of course). Probably going to get tuberculosis, SARS or fish flu from her now.<br /><br />The train stunk of urine and cigarette smoke. It was NOT comfortable whatever the Lonely Planet might say. We couldn't face another night of this, were already worn out from many late nights and early mornings, feeling a bit unwell.<br /><br />We decided that we were willing to sacrifice some sights for more "stop" time to rest and recuperate. So I rang the wonderful Zhou Yan at CITS on the mobile and cancelled our itinerary post Nanjing, moving forward some nights in Shanghai.Thanks to the wonders of modern mobile technology (2.5G here) I was even able to email the instructions and receive a reply to my mobile phone.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU5hcgilgI/AAAAAAAAFMs/SNboJt_M8gY/PICT4010.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU5hcgilgI/AAAAAAAAFMs/SNboJt_M8gY/PICT4010.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Arriving in Nanjing at about 9:30am we quickly booked an onwards midday ticket to Shanghai (easy!), then spent the next hour in McDonalds near the huge train station. We did try a dumpling place first but it was full and we couldn't order.<br /><br />The young lady who served us might have spoken English, but their toilet belied the McDonald's legend. It was a squat and it was dirty, with an overflowing rubbish bin of shit covered toilet paper. From the tray cover I'm also concerned about the source of their beef. The cow looks mad and on hormones.<br /><br />The extensive canal system was visible after Nanjing, which barges chugging up the waters or decrepit boats just sitting there doing nothing. I would love to take a cruise up the Great Canal, just to observe life on either side.<br /><br /><hr style="width: 70%;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU5uMgil0I/AAAAAAAAFPM/ApC1QaScjfA/IMG_0005.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU5uMgil0I/AAAAAAAAFPM/ApC1QaScjfA/IMG_0005.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>It <em>is</em> good to be in Shanghai. This three star hotel might be a bit far away from the centre of town, but it's got a light rail stop, plenty of shops and a park nearby. Catching a proper modern metro again was also a good feeling, despite the number of interchanges.<br /><br />We stopped at Renmin Square and walked along Nanjing Road East until we hit the Bund. From the riverside you can see ultramodern Pudong with its famout Pearl Tower and another, much lower, skyscraper showing video on the side of its walls.<br /><br />I don't want to give the impression that the Chinese are an awful people or that China is a boring place. It's not and we have met many wonderful Chinese who have brought a smile to our faces with their friendliness and helpfulness.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU6C8gimUI/AAAAAAAAFTM/G-ZfDQpfiR8/PICT4050.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgU6C8gimUI/AAAAAAAAFTM/G-ZfDQpfiR8/PICT4050.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>I think we just need some time to rest and get used to the cultural differences again. I'm certainly exhausted after that train ride and I'm certain tomorrow will find us enjoying China once more.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-830852570156310022007-03-22T06:07:00.000-07:002007-03-22T18:17:46.990-07:00Three Gorges<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ8asgihmI/AAAAAAAAEtg/hRL3alrL0Qk/PICT3755.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ8asgihmI/AAAAAAAAEtg/hRL3alrL0Qk/PICT3755.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>"I haven't had enough sleep!" screamed my body as the alarm clock rang. No choice! We were meeting our guide Shirley down at the hotel lobby at 6am for our tour of the Three Gorges after only 3 hours sleep.<br /><br />It was misty, or smoggy, as usual as we drove out in our van on the hour long trip to the docks. Faint silhouettes of mountains suggested beautiful scenery, although our eyes kept shutting, stealing more sleep.<br /><br />A steep staircase flanked by two huge funiculars greeted us at the docks. We had to clamber over docked river cruisers in order to reach our sleek hydrofoil. We found three seats near the front as the boat filled up with workers in transit between the river towns. This was a working transport boat, not a tourist cruiser.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ-IcgiisI/AAAAAAAAE2Q/Oo0e92dgPlc/PICT3826.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ-IcgiisI/AAAAAAAAE2Q/Oo0e92dgPlc/PICT3826.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Through Xiling Gorge we passed hills yellow with rapeseed flowers or boxy new concrete homes clinging to the steep edges of the valley. The hydrofoil sped past flat, narrow ships transporting all manner of goods, from phosophorus to trucks, along the river.<br /><br />Long Wu Gorge was the most spectacular with steep geologically folded cliffs and tall forested peaks, each with a name.<br /><br />The last of the Three Gorges was Qutang. While the scenery adjacent to the river was not as impressive as Wu Gorge, the dramatic mountain range surrounding it loomed large behind the smoggy air.<br /><br />Throughout the journey we could see a pale strip a few metres high running along the waterline. The water level in the dam has actually dropped from summer, as the water supply is locked up as ice in the mountains over winter. The water colour is a clean blue green now, but once the ice melts it will turn muddy brown again. Signs show that ultimately the water will rise about 15 metres higher than the current level, submerging more of the scenery.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgKC0MgikSI/AAAAAAAAFDA/Fgdy_oPjM6M/PICT3929.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgKC0MgikSI/AAAAAAAAFDA/Fgdy_oPjM6M/PICT3929.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>After some negotiation between Shirley and the boat crew we were dropped off at the base of Fengjie. A yet uncompleted bridge loomed tall over the small fishing docks. Shrimps covered the roofs of the small fishing vessels, drying in the sun. We ate carp straight from the boat and noodles under a tarpaulin, the fishermen noisily playing mahjong at another table.<br /><br />More steep stairs led us up the hill to Fengjie, White Emporer Temple. A noble had a vision of white mist rising from a well in the form of a dragon. As a dragon is the symbol of an emperor he went about making himself king of the region, with the help of a brilliant strategist.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ5bcgigtI/AAAAAAAAEmY/5y3Jam1TqMc/IMG_0009.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ5bcgigtI/AAAAAAAAEmY/5y3Jam1TqMc/IMG_0009.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The temple is a quiet place suited for contemplation, with ponds, pavilions, blossoming trees and some beautiful views over Qutang Gorge. The complex is surrounded by peeling red walls and fading but colourful reliefs and contains black steles of poetry inspired by the beauty of the gorges.<br /><br />After walking back down to the fishing docks we discovered that the boat would not arrive for a while. It was an opportunity to chat with Shirley about life in China. We came away thankful for living in a first world country, how it gives us some many more opportunities. There are so many restrictions on realising your full potential in China, so much competition for resources, the familial duties which bind your choices. Even the disparity of wages means that it is difficult for young Chinese to travel overseas, something which they would benefit a lot from, giving them an opportunity to discover alternatives.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ-7sgijJI/AAAAAAAAE54/Z3izLT1kG7Q/PICT3855.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgJ-7sgijJI/AAAAAAAAE54/Z3izLT1kG7Q/PICT3855.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We were forced to find seats in the dirty rear of the boat for the ride home. Smoke from the engines frequently entered the cabin and the windows were cracked and patched. There was not much opportunity to view the scenery and all of us slept for a while, exhausted by the early start.<br /><br />On our ride back from the docks to Yichang we passed the giant dam locks, were told of an even bigger "ship elevator" to life tourist ships all the way from the base of the dam to the top in one movement.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgKBycgij9I/AAAAAAAAFAY/WpZR9AjZ6Oc/PICT3907.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgKBycgij9I/AAAAAAAAFAY/WpZR9AjZ6Oc/PICT3907.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The expressway back to Yichang took us past some magnificent scenery, looking down to the Yangtze River with a backdrop of mountains. This was where Mao had swum across the river, proclaiming that the dam should be built, though the process started long after he died. From one view the mountain tops appear like his facing looking upwards, so this area is considered auspicious for the dam.<br /><br />Shirley pointed out to us that our hotel was just across from the public square, recommending that we go to the top floor of the only department store for a food court. We followed her instructions and indeed had a delicious dinner. We had very pleasant wander back to the hotel past groups of people dancing, or just walking around relaxing in the colourfully lit square. A "magic fountain" reflected the many lights at its base as alternate sections sprayed water into the air.<br /><br />Prior to Yichang we were doubtful about using the services of a local guide, thinking that we would just get a prepackaged spiel and run between the sights. But we greatly enjoyed talking to Shirley and she really went out of her way to make our stay here very pleasant. Thank you!<br /><br />This will probably be the last post here until we reach Shanghai. In a few hours we will be on the overnight train to Nanjing for a day, then another overnight train to Huangshan. A night up the summit of Huangshan, then an overnight train to Shanghai. It promises to be very tiring!allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-50409425728591511592007-03-21T09:11:00.000-07:002007-04-29T16:59:56.025-07:00The effects of globalisation on the Chinese culinary experienceWe have been naughty. Very, very naughty. In our defence I can state that we were only following the instructions given to us by my colleague P2. But really, there is no excuse for our behaviour in a province with such reputation for its cuisine. For today we ate at McDonalds.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgFYScgigZI/AAAAAAAAEj4/Ec3N3pS0qwA/PICT3733.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgFYScgigZI/AAAAAAAAEj4/Ec3N3pS0qwA/PICT3733.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We made a mistake staying two nights and three days in Chengdu. We could easily have seen the sights we wanted to see in two days and spent more time in Shanghai or Hong Kong, but that's what you get for rushed planning in a travel agent's office.<br /><br />The hotel finally kicked us out of our room after midday. We wandered through the centre of the city aimlessly, through posh department stalls to markets in narrow laneways. At Tianfu Square a big statue of Mao stood, right hand raised, in front of the Sichuan Museum of Science and Technology.<br /><br />We were tired of walking and had no small change for lunch at the street stalls. So, heads hung in shame, we climbed the stairs up to the McDonalds overlooking Tianfu Square and the Mao Statue. There's a message there somewhere, though I'm not certain if I know what it is.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgFYXMgigdI/AAAAAAAAEkY/N6gocmuvHUg/PICT3737.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgFYXMgigdI/AAAAAAAAEkY/N6gocmuvHUg/PICT3737.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Using the picture card at the counter for language loosers like us, we ordered a medium spicy chicken sandwich (chicken breast roll) meal, a pineapple sundae and a sweet taro pie. The chicken was real chicken, the french fries not so good, the Coke Coke. But the pineapple sundae was really nice, must be the synthetic pineapple flavour. The taro pie, like an McDonalds apple pie on the outside, had purple and white chunks of taro, a root vegetable, on the inside. Very good!<br /><br />So we went back and ordered chicken nuggets and a pineapple pie... It was good.<br /><br />We wandered back to the hotel, past the GiGi bakery where a pastry chef was doodling around with the cream, making what looked to be an animal. She smiled at us, not having any idea what she was making either. We sat around in the hotel lobby for a while, bored.<br /><br />Later we walked to a nearby Sichuan fast food restaurant and order a meat (or was it tripe?) bun and local style fried rice. Most of it remained on the table uneaten. It was too hot, but also the flavour was not to either of our liking. The only really good Sichuan food we ate was at the Fishermen Village at Leshan. Sadly, the McDonalds and the Pizza Hut meals were enjoyed far more than the local fare.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgFYA8gigRI/AAAAAAAAEk4/VcxQ3_7rwzo/PICT3741.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RgFYA8gigRI/AAAAAAAAEk4/VcxQ3_7rwzo/PICT3741.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We would have left Chengdu with disappointing memories for the day, but as we sat there in the lobby a couple of musicians began playing a Chinese flute and lute (pipa?). The male flautist provided strong melodies while the female lute player's finger literally danced over the strings. It was both beautiful to listen to and to watch.<br /><br />For RMB10 each we caught a bus from next to the hotel to Chengdu airport. I was amusing to watch the taxi touts chase us as the bellboy wheeled our luggage out the bus. The looks on their faces as we caught the bus said it all.<br /><br />Chengdu airport is pretty nice. We bought a few lo quats from the fruit stall prior to security. The helpful staff even let us try the fruit first. Sweet, a little like an apricot.<br /><br />We were bused to the Sichuan Airlines ERJ-145 sitting far out on the tarmac. It was a small jet, three abreast and the service was basic, with water, peanuts (The Lingdom of Foods) and sour dates. But the flight was pretty smooth and there were good views of Chengdu as we took off.<br /><br />Yichang airport shut down straight after we exited the airport. Ignoring the taxi touts we caught a minibus to the city for RMB20 each. The driver said he could take us to our hotel, the Xixzhou (and how do you pronounce that?). After a long and bumpy ride past industrial wastelands and into a city preparing for sleep we were told by another passenger, a young lady, that we should get off and catch a taxi for a short ride to the hotel.<br /><br />The taxis were trailing right behind us, so it was easy to catch one, the cost was, just as the lady said, RMB5. The hotel staff don't seem to speak English, but we were met in the lobby by "Shirley", our very chirpy young CITS tour guide for tomorrow. I have to say that I'm highly impressed by the CITS service we've received thus far, despite the impression given by some travel references. Should be a fun day cruising up the Yangtze tomorrow.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-91782601845293881812007-03-20T09:11:00.000-07:002007-03-20T09:29:10.830-07:00Panda Slam!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_yb8gieBI/AAAAAAAAEQ4/W-IoaFxH8KA/PICT3643.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_yb8gieBI/AAAAAAAAEQ4/W-IoaFxH8KA/PICT3643.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>In one corner is Panda 1, <span style="font-style: italic;">The Bamboo Muncher</span>. In the other is Panda 2,<span style="font-style: italic;"> Backwards Walker</span>. The battle begins with <span style="font-style: italic;">Walker</span> waddling backwards into <span style="font-style: italic;">Muncher</span>. They tussle in the bamboo, <span style="font-style: italic;">Walker</span> on top, no <span style="font-style: italic;">Muncher</span>, no <span style="font-style: italic;">Walker</span>, <span style="font-style: italic;">Muncher</span>. They chase around the enclosure. One climbs a tree, the other pulls him down. Back on the bamboo, the fights nears the moat. In one big movement <span style="font-style: italic;">Muncher</span> throws <span style="font-style: italic;">Walker</span> down tumbling into the moat. <span style="font-style: italic;">Muncher</span> is triumphant, rolling his arms around and doing the Panda Dance!<br /><br />Our first destination today was the Panda Research Centre outside of Chengdu. We got out of the room late, just in time for breakfast in the hotel. The western buffet was not great, but the local food, including noodles, rice, porridge and dumplings was delicious. Nice to have some fresh fruit too. We are both looking forward to trying more tomorrow.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_uXsgiaFI/AAAAAAAADxY/Xb0y_2aCboc/PICT3469.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_uXsgiaFI/AAAAAAAADxY/Xb0y_2aCboc/PICT3469.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We walked outside of the hotel in search of a taxi to take us to the Panda Centre. A tout tried hard to get us in his taxi. "No meter. Too far! What do you want to pay?" he asks. "$30" I reply. "Costs more" he responds.<br /><br />Giving up, we return to the hotel to ask what a good price is. They say $50, but will call in a taxi prepared to use the meter.<br /><br />The driver takes us through run down suburbs in the process of demolition and reconstruction. Here is real Chengdu street life and it is fascinating. When we reach the Panda Centre the meter reads RMB31. So there, you damn touts!<br /><br />The Panda Research and Breeding Centre is the most professionally operated of the tourist sights we have yet seen in China. The grounds are green with a wide variety of trees and plants, wide paths and excellent signs.<br /><br />We thought that, at 10:40am, we were too late to see the Pandas feeding and that they would all be asleep. Not so! At the Panda Adult Enclosure Number 14 we see a few pandas chewing on bamboo or pacing around. Then we walk up to the Red Panda Enclosure Number 2 the small racoon-like red pandas are walking around, or grooming themselves. Quite vain, the red panda.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_vTMgibHI/AAAAAAAAD5o/J6sguJZiyS8/PICT3535.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_vTMgibHI/AAAAAAAAD5o/J6sguJZiyS8/PICT3535.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We were given the opportunity to be photographed holding a red panda for RMB50 each. Why not? So we donned the disposable gloves and sat down on the bamboo chair, a red panda placed on our lap. The attendants fed the panda slices of apple in order to attract their attention.<br /><br />The red panda's tail is long and very bushy. I noticed that, unlike a dog, the nails were transparent and the pink cuticle clearly visible inside. At less than A$10 a pop it was worth it to get up and close with the animals.<br /><br />No pandas were visible in the Panda nursery, it was probably the wrong time of year. However, the panda kindergarten was buzzing. An attendant was playing with the pandas in their enclosure. While most slept up in the wooden climbing platforms one panda was especially active. He even bit the attendant's leg when he wasn't looking.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_y5sgiebI/AAAAAAAAEUI/cDX4qtPkKvY/PICT3657.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_y5sgiebI/AAAAAAAAEUI/cDX4qtPkKvY/PICT3657.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Unfortunately, the RMB1000 "donation" to be photographed with a young panda (or RMB400 with a "teenager" panda) was too much for us this time, though at least the money is probably going towards a good cause.<br /><br />The next enclosure, for teenage pandas, before they become solitary, was where we saw the panda wrestling match. Their antics, like those of the kindergarten pandas, had us entranced for ages. Whatever their real nature, the pandas really are cute to watch.<br /><br />Also cute were the hordes of young schoolchildren on excursion to the centre. They seemed very curious about me, shouting out "hello" and giggling away. Later, in the onsite Panda Museum, a few wanted to shake my hand or even attack me. Why do kids see me as a punching bag? :)<br /><br />From the Panda Centre we caught a van to the Wenshu Temple area. The area has been kept in Ye Olde Chinese style with beautiful courtyards filled with craft shops, food stalls and tea houses. But before we entered the courtyard area proper we were tempted outwards by a wonderful smell. The kind of nice smell you usually don't get in China. It was familiar, but what could it be?<br /><br />A sweet bakery, the counter crowded with waiting customers. We pointed and ordered, not knowing what it was we were getting. Turned out that we had bought incredibly delicious lemon cream puffs, a sweet pastry, cooling minty Chinese dough roles, golden syrup cake and a bag of moreish ginerbread biscuits, also with a mint-cooling aftertaste. We even returned for more at the end of the day, the food was <span style="font-style: italic;">that</span> good.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_zRMgie-I/AAAAAAAAEYg/VcA0RQK_piA/IMG_0128.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_zRMgie-I/AAAAAAAAEYg/VcA0RQK_piA/IMG_0128.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>From a little store we ordered "traditional Sichuan buckwheat noodles", squeezed out from the dough right in front of our eyes. I enjoyed the soba-like noodles, while B drank the soup they were cooked in. Besides the noodle stall was an american drawing and selling caricatures. An amusing juxtaposition from Sydney, where it's usually Chinese artists in the market stalls doing the same thing.<br /><br />The Wenshu Temple and Monastery cost RMB5 each to enter. There was a garden, turtle pond and series of ornate temple buildings. We watched the yellow monks walk into the temple for evening prayers, listed to the drums and chanting as we walked around.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_0EsgigJI/AAAAAAAAEh4/oTjFYJo-vq0/PICT3720.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf_0EsgigJI/AAAAAAAAEh4/oTjFYJo-vq0/PICT3720.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>On the way out we stopped by a small shop selling what appeared to thick noodles. Not certain what it really was, except that it was soft, cold in temperature, but extremely hot in spiciness. We could barely eat a couple of spoonfuls before giving up.<br /><br />Giving up on taxis for the day, we walked back towards the hotel, stopping off at a department store from which the big Mao statue was visible in the distance. As we walked up the lane towards our hotel we passed a dingy but lively area with small shops and restaurants. Thinking that we really should try some more Sichuan cuisine we entered one busy eating house and were directed upstairs. With the help of the phrasebook we ordered a fish (with reduced chilli).<br /><br />One full table next to us was populated by what looked to be members of the "peasant" class. A couple kept staring at me whenever I wasn't looking their way. It was probably just simple curiosity in this case but I think that some locals have been looking down on B for being seen with a waiguoren (foreigner). Don't blame us if your male preferential policies mean there aren't enough local women!<br /><br />Our fish and fish head soup came out eventually, much the same as what we ate at Leshan, only much bonier and far less tasty. After the peasants departed we saw a big rat scuttle out for some scraps. It was that kind of place. Hopefully our stomachs will forgive us.<br /><br />We have one day ahead of us and Chengdu doesn't seem to have many sights within the city proper. Not certain I want to risk a long trip out of town either, they are getting expensive. At least the only thing we need to get up early for tomorrow is breakfast!allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-79827449855868743692007-03-19T06:22:00.000-07:002007-04-16T20:13:14.039-07:00In the presence of a giant<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6M-U_4u5I/AAAAAAAADZs/XE88kT1cllM/IMG_0003.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6M-U_4u5I/AAAAAAAADZs/XE88kT1cllM/IMG_0003.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>As I write this a tradesman is in our bathroom attempting to get a decent water flow in the shower. I was expecting this in China, but the Minshan Hotel <span style="font-style: italic;">is</span> rated four stars according to CITS. I'm not really complaining, for we have had a fantastic day, up there with our walk along the Great Wall.<br /><br />We (okay, I) woke before 5am in order to get ready for our trip to the airport. Both of us felt nervous as our taxi drove us along darkened back roads on the industrial outskirts of Xian. We could have been dumped there and nobody would see it happen.<br /><br />But we survived unscathed and reached Xian's domestic terminal unscathed. The airport is quite functional, if unexciting. The toilets, however, stunk of excrement and urine, despite appearing clean. I think that they were of the type where toilet paper is placed in a bin adjacent to the toilet rather than down the drain.<br /><br />I can't recommend the hot chocolate at the Denise cafe either, but what can you expect?<br /><br />This time we were flying a China Eastern Airlines Airbus A320. The plane could do with a good wash, but what can you expect from flying above the land of the long grey smog cloud? As we ascended above the cloud layer snow capped mountains poked their summits into the heavens.<br /><br />It was another rough flight. I wish I was like B and could sleep through the bumpiness. Little LCD screens popped down above the seats to show some promotional piece, sometimes in colour, but mostly in black and white, about Xian, though we were flying in the opposite direction. The hot Chinese meat bun was much appreciated though.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6Ohk_4wYI/AAAAAAAADlo/9Go-YC1pjxc/PICT3381.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6Ohk_4wYI/AAAAAAAADlo/9Go-YC1pjxc/PICT3381.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Chengdu airport looks very impressive, their speed at getting the baggage on the belt even more so. We were met by our driver for the day, a much quieter man than Mr Zhou. As we drove out directly towards Leshan, 150 kilometres away from Chengdu, B and I both fell asleep, tired from the early departure and from the late nights and too early mornings before it.<br /><br />B declared that she no longer liked China due to the amount of spitting. The Chinese don't just let their phlegm drip to the ground. Neither is it a quick hrckt pfft. For them, it is a process of bringing up and flinging out every last drop of mucus inside their bodies, at least for a minute of so. A hhhrrrrrrrrcccccckkkkk, pppppfffffffffttttttt from deep inside their chests. The government is supposed to be cracking down upon it, but spitting seems, by the enthusiasm with which they do it, to be a source of great pleasure for many Chinese.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6Nc0_4vUI/AAAAAAAADdE/N37GSsAwiVk/PICT3311.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6Nc0_4vUI/AAAAAAAADdE/N37GSsAwiVk/PICT3311.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>As we approached Leshan two previously unseen sights emerged: our first Chinese rain and motorcyclists wearing helmets.<br /><br />But forget rain, spitting, pollution and anything disgusting or bad about China. A walk around the Big Buddha at Leshan was absolutely beautiful. After we stepped past the gate and started up the trail past the Buddhist grottoes, the dragon and the tiger statues, up into rainforest, bamboo and palm, we were in another world, a magical place.<br /><br />The Liguyan Buddhist temple was guarded by colourful bodhisavattas, more like Hindu gods or demons. Then we were in a serene environment of monks, candles and incense, soothing music in the background.<br /><br />Dafo, the big Buddha statue is 71 metres high, carved out of the red sandstone face of Liguyan Hill to provide protection for travellers along the Min River. The statue of the monk Haitong, the driving force behind Dafo's construction, sits nearby. The story goes he gouged his own eyes out to demonstrate his devotion to the project after a corrupt official threatened to blind him if he didn't get a cut of the funds.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6NoU_4vdI/AAAAAAAADeQ/r0lis7OPWvI/PICT3322.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6NoU_4vdI/AAAAAAAADeQ/r0lis7OPWvI/PICT3322.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Standing besides Dafo you feel like you are in the presence of a giant. He is a truly incredible creation. We climbed down the steep steps besides the statue, taking in every facet. The more you stare, the more alive he becomes, as if he is about to stand up and walk.<br /><br />We took the walk around and through the cliffs, taking in the views of the Min River and the valley and stopping off at the pagoda lookouts. We saw the narrow fishing boats and fishermen encampments near the river bank. At the recreated fishermen's village we were accosted by old ladies trying to show us menus. We kept walking.<br /><br />The old style, partly covered Haoshang Bridge provided a great view of the fisherfolk amongst the yellow rapeseed flowers. We crossed, then returned to the Mahao Cave Tombs, hollowed out rectangular caves into which families were buried upon their deaths, with various pottery items enclosed with them, not entirely unlike the Banpo neolithic peoples.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6ORE_4wFI/AAAAAAAADjQ/gJhNC-mzsoA/PICT3362.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6ORE_4wFI/AAAAAAAADjQ/gJhNC-mzsoA/PICT3362.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>We walked back up to the fishing village, and finally agreed to eat a fish from the buckets. The old lady demonstrated that the prices were by weight, not fixed, took a fish and slammed it into the ground, before taking it inside to prepare it.<br /><br />We ate an incredibly delicious meal of sichuan fish, fish head soup and rice, sipping hot tea. It was the best meal so far in China and good value at RMB50 for two. Only the bones were left once we were finished.<br /><br />Trying to backtrack to the Linguyan Temple, we didn't realise that the tickets work in one direction only. But the ticket ladies were kind enough to issue us with new tickets for no charge. We took a different route back, up past the waterfall and wall of calligraphy, a beautiful, peaceful place.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6O9E_4w0I/AAAAAAAADpI/Qp70mMKoDNM/PICT3409.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf6O9E_4w0I/AAAAAAAADpI/Qp70mMKoDNM/PICT3409.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>It was time to return to the car, despite the many other sights left unseen. Again we slept for much of the drive back, arriving at the Minshan Hotel in Chengdu. It is a decent hotel, though we have now been shifted to a new room where the shower works. Free internet access too.<br /><br />We were naughty tonight. After walking into the centre of Chengdu and trying delicious spiced skewered beef we ate dinner at Pizza Hut. Neither of us regretted having a change of diet, with salads and smoothies. Tomorrow, is pandas and proper sichuan food again!allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-63878582973227176762007-03-18T05:02:00.000-07:002007-03-18T06:05:02.483-07:00Ancient smurfs, terracotta warriorsWe felt like really little package tourists today, from eating a hot buffet breakfast to following a flag toting guide. Up early to eat bacon and eggs and to meet our guide for the day, a young lady in pink with the English name of Ruby.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0hXE_4s8I/AAAAAAAADKE/M54S3Aw_uzs/PICT3261.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh6.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0hXE_4s8I/AAAAAAAADKE/M54S3Aw_uzs/PICT3261.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Our minibus stopped at two other hotels, further from the local CITS but much more convenient for the guests, to pick up another ten tourists, including an old Finnish gay man and his younger Thai partner and a couple of Swiss and Italians. On the way our coach driver got into a verbal argument with some men from a wedding party over who had the right to block the hotel driveway. We then drove off to the nearest of the day's destinations, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda.<br /><br />The pagoda was built to house the precious Buddhist artifacts and scrolls brought back from India by the monk Xuanzang. Xuanzang's pilgrimage formed the basis of the story <span style="font-style: italic;">Journey into the West</span>, better known by the Japanese television series <span style="font-style: italic;">Monkey</span>!<br /><br />While the central 64 metre pagoda is impressive (we were too lazy to climb it), also worth seeing is the colourful jade wall representation of Sakyamuni's (Buddha's) life. The story has obviously undergone some modifications over the years, with Sakyamuni now depicted as having special powers as a baby and a halo through his life - very much like the story of Christ.<br /><br />The wooden depictions of Xuanzang's journey are also worth a look, though I could not see any monkeys flying around on clouds.<br /><br />The following destination was the obligatory shopping stop, ostensibly to learn how the warriors were constructed (head and hands moulded separately from the body, which was made on a pottery wheel). Really, it was just a shallow attempt to get us to buy various sized repoductions and furniture.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0hn0_4tmI/AAAAAAAADPU/1tNKye5vmFo/IMG_0043.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0hn0_4tmI/AAAAAAAADPU/1tNKye5vmFo/IMG_0043.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Next stop was the Banpo Ancient Village. This is the site of excavations of a neolithic village from 6000 years ago. The Banpo society was apparently matriarchal and according to our guide there was no central management structure and everyone worked for the common good of the village - conveniently communist methinks.<br /><br />From the shape of the ground indentations the Banpo people were neolithic smurfs. Not certain about their skin colour being blue, but they did live in mushrooms. Or so their wood and adobe houses appeared.<br /><br />Excavations show the skeletons of adults, sometimes buried together in communual cemetary grounds. The babies were placed in clay pots kept in the houses of the mothers, who would continue to "look after" their offspring. Descendants were also known to chop off a couple of their digits to be buried with their parents. Don't remember ever seeing the smurfs doing that.<br /><br />The lunch was also vary much a tourist trap location, though at least B got to eat some rice (short grain - the Cantonese seem to use long grain). The food was okay and at least we didn't go through our normal practice of searching the whole city for food.<br /><br />Each time the coach set off we napped. After late nights and early mornings we were both exhausted. A couple of good things about the tour was that we were driven around and could relax from planning and thinking.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0htU_4t0I/AAAAAAAADRE/m_26t7Ry7UU/IMG_0057.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0htU_4t0I/AAAAAAAADRE/m_26t7Ry7UU/IMG_0057.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>Finally, we made it to the Terracotta Warriors, braving the hawkers as we made our way up from the carpark to the excavation site. There was a lot of redevelopment going on, with men jackhammering away and women using picks. Posters lined the sides of the path, one stating:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Qin Wind, Qin Smelody, Qin Culture</span><br /></div><br />Maybe they also ate cabbages for lunch.<br /><br />The warriors were as impressive as the hype suggested. There are three excavations. The first pit is in the aircraft hanger like building. This contains the reconstructed warriors in formation, plus others in a partly reconstructed state. Much of the location remains unexcavated in order to retain the colouration on the buried warriors.<br /><br />The seconds pit houses the general staff and a chariot. Most of the third and final pit is unexcavated, but a few figures have been reconstructed, including a couple of archers, a general and a lower ranking officer. These you can see up close and the level of detail is incredible, down to the tread of their shoes.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0iA0_4ugI/AAAAAAAADWk/qkkkWUe0YSY/IMG_0082.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/Rf0iA0_4ugI/AAAAAAAADWk/qkkkWUe0YSY/IMG_0082.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The tour gave us enough time at the warriors to see all we wanted to, then it was back to our hotels. We were tempted to request to be dropped off in the centre of Xian and explore it further, but both of us, me especially, were tired and want to call it an early night. So we found a dumpling restaurant recommended by the Lonely Planet and located across from the hotel. The difficult bit was in crossing the road, dodging the cars. Scary.<br /><br />I would like to have seen more of Xian, walked the city walls and explored the Muslim Quarter. It seems a fascinating place, though sometimes the streetscapes reminded me of Beijing. Tomorrow we are off very early to Chengdu and Leshan. Time to get an early night.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1907547793378573755.post-249699439816904522007-03-17T08:31:00.000-07:002007-03-17T09:27:22.145-07:00Sacrifices and cadaversI feel like we had a little bit of a China Day today. We made it to Xi'an, but this hote, the Xi'an is not, as Ms Joe described it, at a great location. It's outside the walls and away from the bright lights and I've only had pot noodles and junk food for dinner...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RfwJzk_4qZI/AAAAAAAAC1s/ExZdGkD9u30/PICT3118.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh3.google.com.au/image/allrong/RfwJzk_4qZI/AAAAAAAAC1s/ExZdGkD9u30/PICT3118.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>This morning we checked out of our hotel in Beijing and caught a taxi to the Temple of Heaven. The temple is actually a complex of buildings located within a park. It was here that the Emporer and his retinue sacrificed animals to the gods in order to ensure a good harvest.<br /><br />I wanted to sacrifice some of the singers making awful noise in the park, like shrieking birds. Chinese song cannot be defined as music. Or maybe it's just the effects of karaoke, the single worst invention in the history of mankind.<br /><br />We were walking the wrong way through the complex, from north to south. So we hit the highlight first, the Hall for Prayer for Good Harvests. The empty space around this octagonal/circular building highlights its impressive architecture. It's colours are rich reds, blues, greens and gold and it sits on three levels of white marble.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RfwKO0_4rFI/AAAAAAAAC7M/vtCo_IY0SSE/PICT3162.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh4.google.com.au/image/allrong/RfwKO0_4rFI/AAAAAAAAC7M/vtCo_IY0SSE/PICT3162.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The marble carvings come in three types - the dragon, the phoenix and clouds. I especially like the dragons poking horizontally outwards from the walls. One type in particular looks fat and silly rather than fearsome. He even has flat teeth.<br /><br />From the park we walked around to the nearby Museum of Natural History. The animated dinosaurs and various animal skeletons are particularly interesting. Other exhibits would be more so if their English captions were better. The aquarium section smelled like a fish shop.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RfwK7E_4sTI/AAAAAAAADE8/66hJ-EGJO58/PICT3232.JPG?imgmax=512"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://lh5.google.com.au/image/allrong/RfwK7E_4sTI/AAAAAAAADE8/66hJ-EGJO58/PICT3232.JPG?imgmax=512" alt="" border="0" /></a>The most gruesome exhibits were not, as the Lonely Planet says, on the top floor, but in a separate white building near the exit gate. Here were human cadavers and organs, cut away to demonstrate different parts of the body. There was a tank containing just the male sexual and liquid waste disposal system, baby and children's faces half cut away to show the brain and teeth. I guess some would find this disgusting, but for me it was a fascinating anatomy lesson. Chinese parents seemed to have no problem with it either, as they showed their young kids around.<br /><br />We walked back to our hotel, past recently demolished hutongs. Vendors were hawking hairdressing wares outside one, including bunches of human hair. We passed some local shops and bought some sweets, or so they claimed to be for we both found them awful.<br /><br />After purchasing some souveniers of the Beijing 2008 Olympics from the shop beside Tiananmen Square and some more footslogging we finally reached the hotel. Our legs had given up.<br /><br />Both of us slept a short while on the taxi ride to the airport, though I did catch a glimpse of the ancient observatory and crumbling remains of the city wall. I wonder if the driver pushed a button to speed up the meter, because the fare cost us more than RMB100 and seemed to tick over quickly near the end.<br /><br />Beijing's airport is quite nice. There are actually decent food places after security, prior to security your best bet seems to be in the basement where a number of food vendors reside, including KFC. The pre-pay system dissuaded us from eating there, despite our hunger. Anyway, we were running out of time.<br /><br />Our Hainan airlines flight morphed into a Chang'an Airlines Airbus 319, but I don't pretend to understand Chinese airline ownership. Clean aircraft, fairly comfortable and the announcements were in Chinese and sometimes unintelligible English. We even got a box of noodles or rice, a bun and pickles on the plane, though I found my inedible. I couldn't believe they continued to serve during turbulence, although considering the whole flight was rough I guess they had no choice. I couldn't wait to land.<br /><br />At Xian we ignored the taxi touts and hoped on a minibus. The "conductor" did her best to explain in English that our stop was a distance away from our hotel. We passed motorways and parts of the city wall lit up like some futuristic world. Xian seems to be an interesting place and I am now regretting our short stay.<br /><br />Once off the bus we made our first big taxi mistake, with a tout grabbing our bags and hustling on board, then refusing to use the meter. At the hotel RMB13 turned into RMB30 and he took our RMB20 note and drove off. Bastard, but our fault.<br /><br />The hotel seems designed to absorb our money, though at least the internet access is free (I hope). The bellboy who brought our luggage (he wouldn't let us take it up ourselves) redeemed himself by being very friendly and helpful, assisting us in changing rooms when we were given a twin instead of a double (we <span style="font-style: italic;">did</span> ask Ms Joe for doubles!).<br /><br />It was late, we were away from any shops and only the western restaurant was open and changing high prices. We were "forced" to purchase pot noodles from the hotel shop. The hotel has no message to say that we are booked on tomorrow's tour of the terracotta warriors, despite us having paid for it. Finally, I can't find my ATM card - must have misplaced it.<br /><br />I hope things are back to smooth tomorrow. I'm tired (too much late night blogging) and a little disappointed with the results of letting someone else book. I don't like this hotel's location and I don't like the one in Shanghai either. For both places I had better options I found myself. Already I'm wondering if we are pushing things too quickly now.<br /><br />Time to relax for tomorrow's early start.allritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04470337769944277343noreply@blogger.com